KENTUCKY BOURBON DISTILLERY

WILLETTE DISTILLERY

MAY 23, 2012

If you want Dave to take charge of an event and come alive, it should involve beer, wine, rum or bourbon.  He does a fine job.  While I was checking out emails, Dave was quietly looking up information on his IPAD and calling for appointments.  He arranged for a private tour at a small batch bourbon distillery.    His aim is for the distilleries we did not visit when we completed the Bourbon Trail last fall.

Just outside of Bardstown, down the road from My Old Kentucky Home State Park and past Heaven Hills Distillery is Kentucky Bourbon Distillery home of Johnny Drum and Willet bourbon.  It was built after the repeal of Prohibition by Thompson and Johnny Willett and became the family distillery for over thirty years.    Their signature bourbons were Old Bardstown now produced by Heaven Hills and Johnny Drum marketed for overseas consumption.  During the 1970’s the brothers converted the distillery to produce alcohol for gasohol fuel and stopped making bourbon entirely.  Several grants fell through and other things happened causing the distillery to close and go into foreclosure.

In comes Evan Kulsveen, married to Willett’s daughter.  Evan took over the distillery and started producing spirits again.  The Kulsveen/Willetts have been in the spirit business since 1600’s in France producing Brandy.   The foreign market for American bourbon was beginning to boom, especially the Japanese market.  The old remaining Willett stock was bottled in classic looking packages and sold in Japan.  Even has not had much interest in developing an American market.  He has marketed his bourbon as “Small Batch Bourbon”.

Drew Kulsveen, son of Evan and Manager of the Distillery gave us an extensive tour.  It was fantastic.    Drew, his sister  Britt Chavanne and her husband Hunter Chavanne and Even comprise the business today. 

Dave and Drew discussing the chemistry (what else!) for alcohol!

He brought us into the main building and the first thing I thought was, It smells like a bakery.  We climbed to the second floor to view the fermenting vats.  You could feel the heat rising from the vats and the yeast did its work.   

 EMPTY VAT - HEAT/COOLING COILS  

The still was such a unique design. Even and Drew designed this still.  It was quite beautiful which inspired me to buy the bottle of bourbon that is in a replica for this still.

Next we crossed over to the barrel room.  They purchase their barrels from a company in Louisville

The barrel room…..I asked what they do with the used charred barrels.  Since this is a small batch distillery producing about 20 barrels a day, their market is breweries rather than the Scotch and Whiskey makers overseas.  He suggested trying a chocolate-coffee stout from one of these used barrels.  Imagine the richness in the taste.  (We’re beer drinkers too)

They rolled a barrel over and showed us how they filled the barrel with the liquid gold.

 The filling hose is original.  Kind of looks like a gas hose.  Dave was busy wiping the side of the barrel where the bourbon was spilling out.

The barrels are rolled over to the scale to be weighed.  Again this scale is the original scale of the distillery.  Whenever possible, if it works and is still efficient, it is used by this family.

The barrels are then stamped and taken over to the rick houses.

They have worked to keep the old buildings, reinforcing only when necessary for safety and modernization.  The vats and still are unique in their design. the reconditioned distillery building, is kept cool by some amazing belt-driven cast iron ceiling fans. The 1935 vintage gauging building has been beautifully restored to preserve the wood-grained character of the old structure. 

There are eight well-weathered, traditional rick-style warehouses at the property. These currently hold aging bourbon destined for the various labels and brands produced by the Kentucky Bourbon Distillers bottling operation. Slowly but surely they will be filled with new barrels distilled onsite by Kentucky’s newest…old distillery.

 Their bourbon is aged for 4 years and the first six barrels at 103 proof, on January 27, which would have been the 103rd birthday of Thompson Willett.  You can see the message on the barrel.  This one is a keeper - will probably never be openned.

 In the meantime,  the Kentucky Bourbon Distillers, is a bottling operation that produces a range of private labels, as well as their own brands, including Willett Pot Still Reserve, Johnny Drum, and Willett Family Estate.  Those first barrels from January will be quite a celebration.

A lake fed by a real limestone spring behind the distillery provides water for the process;  they are planning on building a B&B on the edge of the lake and utilizing old structures on the property as porches for guests. I believe they have seven springs on the property as well as access to the creek so there is plenty of room for growth.

We entered the tasting room and started off with White Dog which is really moonshine.  It is the initial pour off the barrel.  It was crystal clear and a hardy drink.  Then we tried the Willett Pot Still Reserve 94 Proof Bourbon.  I really like this one and it came in a decanter the shape of the still.

Rowans Creek is the creek behind the property which furnishes water for the distilling proces so we had Rowan's Creek Small Batch 100.1 proof and.... it too....was great so be bought it!  And..........we bought Dave a hat for doing such a good job of planning!!!

LIFE IS GOOD!

BARTON DISTILLERY 1792 RIDGEMONT

BARTON DISILLERY   

1792 RIDGEMONT

AKA The Tom  Moore Distillery

Our second stop was to the Barton Distillery which, by contrast, is the world third largest distillery. It opened in 1876 by Mattingly Moore and Tom Moore took it over in 1879.  Prohibition did a number on these distilleries and by 1934 the original distillery was torn down.  In 1937-1944 Moore’s son and bank ran it but the son had no interest in the business.  Oscar Getz purchased the distillery and named it Barton.  There is a whiskey museum in Bardstown housing all of Getz’s memorabilia.  It was used as a “cash cow” for its next owners.  In disrepair and at threat of closing, Sazerac Company ( also owners of Buffalo Trace) bought the distillery and poured money into the operation.  Along with the manufacture of VOB and 1792 Ridgemont Reserve, many of Sazerac’s other spirits are bottled here.  It was a lifeline that saved 180 jobs and kept a distillery functioning in the Bourbon Capital.

This distillery primarily uses coal for heating and all the coal comes from Eastern Kentucky.  We entered the VOB (Very Old Bourbon) rack house.  There is what is called “distiller’s mold” which turns everything black.  I always noticed on the sides of the white rack houses that it looked black and moldy.  In the old days the authorities searching for stills would look for the black mold on the trees!  Can’t get away with anything ….. until the stills became more mobile then they’d move them through the woods and the mold wouldn’t be so bad ….. hah!

 Because of the weight of these barrels, about 500 lbs each and the numbers of them stored (in the thousands) it is very important that the weight distribution be correct.  From the top of the rafters to the bottom floor is a plumb line.  This indicates the degree of leaning of the building and the need to rearrange the barrels.

These rack buildings are original.  Nothing is changed.  I think the dirt is original also.

Our guide mentioned the forest animals that feast off the corn from the trucks and come into the rack house.  One day she saw a drunken ground hog that had been licking the weeping barrels too much.  The rack houses have 274 windows and the beams would lay out 60 miles.  In its day it cost $50K to build, today it would be $2.5M so you can see why these rick houses are salvaged as much as possible.

You can purchase your very own barrel for $5,000.  They will bottle it up for you and send it to a distributor of your choice for pick up.  You then can keep the barrel.  A barrel yields about 210 bottles.

The grain trucks come in from Kansas and Indiana.  Barton’s has used the same farmers for fifty years.  The grain is sampled for  impurities then loaded up into the silos where it is then made ready for the mashers.  The operation is so much larger than The Ketucky Bourbon Distillery by size and volume.

Next we went into the distilling area.  Compare these stills with the one from the smaller distillery!

 THIS IS AN ORIGINAL STILL FROM BACK IN THE DAY!

THIS IS THE MODERN STILL.  BOTH STILLS ARE IN USE.

In addition to making fine bourbon whiskey, it is also a bottling plant for other Sazarac's products.

MASSON BRANDY

FILL'ER UP!

From here we went to the tasting room where we tasted the VOB and 1792 Ridgemont.  

My preference was the VOB.  It tasted smoother to my uninitiated palate.  Dave liked them both .... as you'd expect!

End to a perfect BOURBON DAY.....almost.

For dinner we went to the historic Old Talbott Tavern, circa 1779. Since the late 1700’s the Old Talbott Tavern has provided shelter, food and drink.  It is said to the oldest western stagecoach stop in America as the westward expansion brought explorers from the east into Kentucky. Abe Lincoln and his family stayed here, Daniel Boone and exiled French King Louis Phillipe and his entourage stayed here (probably on his way to LA). 

We had a Old Kentucky Hot Brown which is ham and turkey on toast points with cheese mornay sauce, tomato and bacon strip.  To accompany our meal we chose the five shot Bourbon Sampler consisting of........

Blanton’s Single Barrel

Booker’s Small Batch (130 proof)

Knob Creek 9 yr small batch

Bulleit, Knob Creek 9 year small batch

Maker’s 46.  

For dessert I had aBourbon Ball (Buffalo Trace bourbon, butterscotch Schnapps and irish cream) and Dave had Southern Sweet Tea (Bourbon, Tea and  mango juice). 

Sitting in the dining room with its old stone walls, I could picture 200 years of travelers coming through this Inn and having a grog and supper.  You could feel the history in the place.

 So ended our May 23rd.  Home to Billy and a lovely evening walk.   LIFE IS GOOD.

WHY KENTUCKY BOURBON?

“I feel sorry for people who don’t drink.  When they wake up in the morning, that’s as good as they’re going to fee all day.” (Frank Sinatra)

WHITE OAK BARRELS & AGING

The charred oak barrels can only be used once.  After Prohibition, the Standards of Identity were written and enforced protecting the coopers’ union.  To ensure cooperages had forever work, a law that bourbon had to be stored in brand new charred oak containers was passed.  Reusing a barrel even following all the other rules of make bourbon, all is left is whiskey.   It would not be bourbon whiskey.

Charred barrels is what makes Kentucky Bourbon so special.  It is the interaction of the charred barrels with aging whiskey that enhances the flavor.  The longer the time in the barrel, the deeper the color and richer the flavor as the whiskey seeps into the charred barrel.  97% of all bourbon is still produced in Kentucky.   Most of the barrels are purchased from Independent Stave Company in KY.

 Barrel aging is responsible for 50% and 75% of the final flavor.

WHY KENTUCKY

Conditions in Kentucky are perfect for whiskey making. 

WATER & FILTERING: Fresh springs, creeks and lakes carry pure limestone-filtered water that filters out all of the iron.  Kentucky also contains good amount of calcium, which is why the horse industry thrives here.  Horses eat the grass and drink the water obtaining the calcium they need for strong ankles.  However, limestone filtering the water for bourbon also filters the calcium so drinking bourbon doesn’t guarantee strong ankles!  Some may think they can outrun Usain Bolt just because you’ve been enjoying bourbon!

 WEATHER:  Kentucky is situated right in center of country; extreme cold in the winters and extreme heat in the summers.  Temperature fluctuations allow whiskey to work into and out of the barrels imparting color and flavor.

PROOF

Bourbon whiskey cannot store distillate at more than 125 proof.  If it is distilled at higher proof, more filtered water needs to be added diluting the bourbon taste and color.  Evaporation takes 4% a year – known as the angels’ share.  It is what the angels drink.  Stored at the higher floors where it’s hot and dry, proof will rise from 125 proof to 145 proof after evaporation.  If you put 160 proof whiskey in the barrel it could rise up to 180 proof.  Having to add water to get the bourbon down to 80 or 100 proof in the bottle, you’ve watered down what you worked so hard for.  Bourbon can’t enter the barrel at anything more than 125 proof.

ALL BOURBON IS WHISKEY BUT NOT ALL WHISKEY IS BOURBON

·         Majority of grains must be corn.  Also includes rye, wheat, malted barley but 51% corn

·         Must be distilled under 160 proof

·         Must be stored in new charred oak barrel

·         Nothing can be added to bourbon except water

RACK HOUSES

Bourbon is warehoused in rack houses.  Most are tin-wrapped wooden structures facing north to south for sun exposure.  A traditional rack house as five to nine stories .  Barrels stay in same place whole time and pulled out in the same order as placed in.    Some are rotated.  There are various ways to obtain the flavor and the method is up to the distiller.  

THE CROOKED ROADS .. OUR LAST DAY

May 21, 2012

We are so enjoying our stay here.  It is so peaceful and the weather is devine.  Yesterday Geoff and Linda came over and spent the afternoon with us catching up.  They were the managers at Cascade Lake for the last two summers.  We had a great time talking about everything.  Amazing how you never run out of things to share with good friends.

Today is our last day before we head off to Bourbon tasting.  We realize how much we value Western North Carolina and are going to miss spending our summer here this year.  Moonshine Creek has been a great place to stay.  Everyone is very, very friendly and you can’t beat the location and ambience.

  

Billy has become a “road warrior”.  For a very long time he had to be coached into the back seat of the car and even at that, we had to lift his rump up into the seat.  This morning as I was sitting on the couch, I asked Billy in passing…half expecting an answer “You going for a ride with us?”  His eyes got wide, his ears perked up and he started dancing around the MH.  Within seconds he was barking at me to get going, let’s get going.   Going for a ride!!!!!   Didn’t take him long to hop into the backseat of the car.

We decided to head over to Lake Junaluska and check out the area.  

Lake Junaluska Conference and Retreat Center started in 1908 when a commission, the Southern Assembly, Inc. purchased 1200 acres in Richland Valley NC and began construction on a dam and auditorium.  By the end of 1912 the Dam and auditorium were near completion.  It is named after Mount Junaluska in honor of Chief Junaluska, a Native American Chief who lived in the Cherokee area.  After enduring the Trail of Tears to Oklahoma with fellow Cherokees in 1838, Chief Junaluska returned to NC after learning some of the Cherokees had remained. 

The lake is approximately 200 acres and is surrounded by a walking path. 

There are several inns, homes for rent and conference centers.  

In addition there are tennis courts, swimming pools and recreation areas.  It is a beautiful place in a beautiful setting.  

I can imagine coming on a retreat here and feeling renewed at the end of my stay.

From  here we drove through Maggie Valley and then hopped onto the Blue Ridge Parkway back to Waynesville.  It was a clear day and you could see for miles and miles and miles and miles.  

Billy enjoyed getting out of the car and running around the scenic areas.  He hardly looked up …. His nose was pinned to the grass.  So many new smells everywhere.

NOTE THE TONGUE HANGING OUT!!  HE'D RUN HIS LEGS OFF!!!

BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAIN LAUREL

RIDE THE CROCKED ROAD!

Came down into Waynesville and walked the historic street.

MOUNTAIN MUSIC!

  The clouds were coming in and the wind was starting to kick up.  Our mission was two-fold.  One … get to the Doggy Bakery to pick up some wholesome snacks for our four-legged guy and two …. Get some ice cream for us two legged guys!

GOT BILLY 1/4 LB OF THE PEANUT BUTTER BONES.  HE LOVES THOSES.  THEY ARE HOME BAKED WITH INGREDIENTS FROM THE GROCERY STORE - NO FILLERS.  NOTHING BUT THE BEST FOR OUR BILLY!

I LOVE IT WHEN STORES LEAVE OUT WATER BOWLS FOR DOGS.

Mission accomplished and we headed for the car, just as the rain broke through.

This evening we’ll get packed up and get ready to roll in the morning.  Dave’s already scoped out a spot for us to hook up the dolly and load up the car.  OH JOY!  CAN’T WAIT!

LIFE IS GOOD!

MOONSHINE CREEK CAMPGROUND

MAY 12, 2012

(FRIDAY....I THINK)

Wow this is a great campground.  It’s nestled into the mountains and you feel like you’re a  million miles away but only 7 miles from Waynesville for conveniences and 1 mile from Blue Ridge at the Balsam exit.   It is really beautiful here.  I can't rave enough about the temperatures!  I may be as high as low 70's, dry and sunny.  ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.

Billy met Huck (Huckelberry), an Australian Shepherd about a year old.  They got along great and played and played and played.  It was obvious from watching them that they are both from the same “family” of dogs.  The older Billy gets, the more Border Collie comes out although he has the Springer ears and fur coat but the Border Collie tail. 

BILLY'S FRIEND HUCKLEBERRY

From our Motorhome, Billy sits at the door and watches the street to make sure all is under control.  He is ever alert and enjoying this outdoor living.

Since the campground isn’t full, we are more comfortable taking Billy to the vacant sites and letting him run his legs off.  He’s now sleeping on the couch …. He loves my new pillow I bought to lay on!

We are right on Moonshine Creek and the sound of running water can be heard throughout the MH.   Sometimes I look around to be sure we don’t have a fan on.

The Aldens should really love this CG if for no other reason that it’s name!   The first time I had moonshine was at Cascade Lake camping with the Aldens.  The family across from the Alden’s campsite brought moonshine and shared it with us.  It took my breath away.  Barb really liked it!

Along one side of the CG are seasonal folks who leave their RV’s here and use them during the summer as their summer homes.  It’s about $2,000/year or if you work as a host for six months it’s free.  Nice alternative if this is the spot you want to stay in.  Looks appealing to me.

    The couple who live here are from New Smyrna Beach.  The Mays.  They leave their RV up here all year to use in the summer.  Right off the door is a very nice wooden deck.  She was in the middle of planting her flower gardens.  Not a bad life!

The tent sites are beautiful.  They are right on the creek with a deck overlooking the water.

There are also several cabins perched high on the hill.  They have a bed, table and a ladder that looks like it goes up to a loft.  I'm not sure there are any bathrooms in the cabins but the bathrooms are close by.

  This is a great place for motorcyclists to stay.  Right off the Blue Ridge for easy access.

The grounds are gorgeous.  This Creek runs the length of the CG down the mountain.

There is an area for volleyball and a playground for small kids.  No swimming pool but a pond for fishing.

  The pathways and bridges crisscross Moonshine Creek.  The setting is very serene....especially now with no one really here.

The bathhouse/laundry area is extremely nice.  Each end of the building are the mens and ladies bathrooms with four showers each.  The center area are the washers and dryers, folding tables, ironing board and a sitting area with comfortable couches to wait and a book exchange for reading.  All of this is well kept.

There are 76 trailer/RV sites, about 20 tent sites including a small group camping area and seven cabins. 

Although the campground could be described as "tight" and probably when full has more of that feeling, there was room to put out slides and awning.  The hosts took our tow dolly and stored it up by the store as there would be not place to stow it on site.  There is only room for one car and our site is probably a little short for the RV so the car is parked close to our awning.   The front end of the RV is right up to the street.

There are some good sized rigs in here, we didn't have a problem with the 35' although it was tight and I'm glad I wasn't driving.  The route here is up, up, up and turning and up so it can feel daunting driving in here.

Drove into Waynesville to meet Roberta and Jay for dinner.  We hosted with them at Cascade Lake for the past two summers.  It was great seeing them. They are heading to Cascade Lake on Monday.

The drive into Waynesville was only about 20 minutes from the campground.

All in all we are enjoying being here.  I would recommend this campground to visitors coming into this area.