BLUE GRASS AND MOONSHINE

CONFEDERATE RETREAT DOWN I-81

We left Gettysburg following Col Robert E. Lee's Confederate Army south towards Hagerstown, Antietam, Harpers Ferry into the Shenandoah Valley (all on I 81).  The drive down was beautiful.  Came down through Maryland, West Virginia and then Virginia.  The Appalachians rose up on either side of us as we drove through this wonderfully rich Shenandoah Valley of Virginia.  

We stopped at a  KOA in Wytheville, Virginia just 40 miles from the Tennessee line.  All of the campgrounds up here, from Interlaken in New York through Artillery Ridge in Pennsylvania and down to Wytheville, VA, are doing great Halloween celebrations for the kids (and adults) who were staying the weekend.  Interlaken in New York had turned their entire campground into a Halloween celebration; Artillery Ridge had activities planned all day Saturday for children including pumpkin painting and costume marches.  KOA in Virginia had hayrides and a party going on at the meeting hall.

We were in a pull-through along with all the other highway warriors who came in to spend the night and pull out the next day.  It was a pleasant place, far enough away from the highway that noise wasn’t an issue yet an easy on and off the next morning.

We continued to follow the mountain ridges until we got close to the Tennessee line then climbed and climbed and climbed.  We were entering the Cherokee National Forest heading down into the heart of the Appalachian chain.  By Bristol, Tennessee we were face-on to the mountain ranges and they were magnificent!  My heart soared!  This place I know as well as any other.  I spent more time in these mountain ranges than anywhere else in the US. 

We were getting closer.    We picked up I26 heading for Asheville.  By this time we were in the Pisgah National Forest; the Smokies were on the other end of North Carolina/Tennessee border.  We passed the Hot Springs exit and I remembered the last time I was there, we were whitewater rafting the French Broad, so I knew we were just north of Asheville.

Dave exited I26 and we found ourselves passing the Moose Café……..one of our favorite places to eat situated right next to the Western NC farmers market. 

We finally arrived.  Got to Cascade Lake Road and started that climb up to the campground and the MH slowed down; slower and slower and slower.  We were going about 20 mph by the time we reached the crest and started sliding downhill into the campground…front first.

VIEW FROM OUR MH

 CASCADE LAKE

 SWIMMING LAKE

BEAUTIFUL VIEWS FROM OUR CAMP FIRE

CASCADE LAKE

Well we’re back….as campers and loving it.  We are in P1 right on the water yet very private.  The views are fantastic.  Colors coming out.  Bright blue skies, just pretty, pretty, pretty!  Our first meal back was JETS PIZZA.  We lived on that pizza for two summers and loved it.  As soon as we got settled, we headed down into Brevard to pick up our pizza. 

WNCW PUBLIC RADIO

On our way down the mountain, I tuned our radio to WNCW out of Spindale, NC licensed to Isothermal Community College;  the best public radio station I’ve ever listened to.  The music played on this station is unique, a blend of folk, blues, jazz, reggae, celtic world, rock, bluegrass, indie and NPR news.  You might hear just about anything, but nothing you’ll hear on a commercial radio station.  88.7 – try it on internet radio. 

The temperatures comparison I did between Vermont and WNC have diverged considerably.  Once we got through the summer, Vermont’s cool down was three times faster than WNC.  It’s now in the high 60’s, low 70’s during the days and 40’s at night.  So, if you wanted to keep that “Pursuit of Cool” you could stay in Vermont July, August and then head down to WNC September, October and then into Florida November to April.  The temperatures and humidity levels would remain about the same.

OLD HAUNTS/FAMILIAR ROUTES

Our first full day back in the heart of the WNC mountains, we headed down towards Brevard and up 276 past Davidson River Campground where I spent so many summers camping with my boys.  We always drive this road, for years I have traveled up the mountain on 276 and never, never, never have grown tired of it or bored with the scenery. 

 SLIDING ROCK

We passed Looking Glass Falls and stopped at Sliding Rock a favorite of the family and every other family coming here in the summer.   Three generations of my family have slid down these rocks into the icy pool below.  One of the primary reasons I purchased an SLR camera was to be able to capture the looks of horror on their faces as they launched off the bottom into the pool of water that remained about 50 degrees!    It was worth the cost!

LAUNCH OFF ROCK INTO FRIGID POOL!

PREVIOUS SUMMERS AT SLIDING ROCK

We continued our drive up the mountain to the Discovery Center Cradle of Forestry in hopes of finding Linda and Howard still hosting there.  Not only were they still there, they had just taken their lunch break so we joined them for lunch on the back deck.  One of my favorite restaurants in Brevard, Hob Nob, was serving lunch in the cafeteria.  I had a bacon and lettuce and fried green tomato sandwich.  Best fried green tomatoes.  Only in the south! 

 It was so good seeing Linda and Howard again.  We spent the last two summers as camping neighbors working at Cascade Lake.  We had an absolutely delightful time visiting with them over lunch.  They had a wonderful summer at the Discovery Center and we sang the praises of Mark and Lucy and Vermont State Parks.  Linda and Howard had been following the blog so they already had a good idea of what our summer days were like! 

Also working at the Discovery Center were Joy and Frank who were hosts at Cascade Lake last year.  It was great seeing them and they, too, had a wonderful summer at the Discovery Center. 

This Cradle of Forestry Discovery Center is very near and dear to my heart.  I started bringing my kids here when they were six and eight, some 30 years ago!! And continued to visit it every time we came up to camp.  It has grown into a treasure for families and hands-on exhibits for kids to learn about our forests.  The two hiking trails are great; my favorite has always, always been the Biltmore Trail as it takes you past the building used for the first School of Forestry in the late 1800’s.

CRADLE OF FORESTRY

If you’re interested in the history of forestry and conservation and environmentalism and enjoy all of the fruits of past labor to build and preserve our national and state park system, and appreciate all the hard work of the CCC State Parks …… it all started here at the Cradle of Forestry on George Vanderbilt’s Biltmore Estate in Asheville where he brought in a German forester called Gifford Pinchot to manage the forests.  Pinchot went on to become the first Chief of Forest Service under Teddy Roosevelt and Carl Schenck replaced him on the estate establishing the first School of Forestry professionally training foresters with hands-on-training. This is where it happened.

Moving down the threads of that tapestry, Teddy Roosevelt was FDR’s mentor.  Teddy started the Forest Service and FDR followed up with the Civilian Conservation Corp which was managed partly under the Department of the Army and party under the Department of Forestry. 

RANGERS HOUSE

This is my favorite house in the world.  I have taken pictures of this place since 1982 and always had a photograph of it in my office.  When I would get stressed at work, I would sit and lose myself in this setting.  It was my “calm place to go”.   I think I lived here in a past life!

Constructed in 1882, this large two-story house was purchased by George W. Vanderbilt to house his rangers.  Ranger George Gillespie and his family boarded eight forestry students in the rooms upstairs.  

For two meals each day Mrs Gillespie fed the students along with her family.  Part of the garden near the house became a seedling nursery for school

LITTLE BILLY, OCTOBER 2011,  MY HOW YOU HAVE GROWN!

HELL HOLE

Dr Schenck told new arrivals to the forestry school “find yourself a place to stay”.  Many did so in the cabins left by settlers after Vanderbilt purchased their land.  Students gave their cabins playful names such as “Gnat Hollow” and “Rest for the Wicked” or “Hell Hole” as this one was known.

ROCK HOUSE CREEK LODGE

In an effort to protect the mountains Schenck installed rangers in lodges at fourteen strategic locations throughout the forest and paid them $50/month to protect the forest from “thievery”.    The architecture used is from the Black Forest of Germany.  They built the lodges with chestnut beams and tulip poplar siding.  They were cozy little homes in the mountains and imagine very peaceful and quiet.

 LOOKING GLASS FALLS

We left the Cradle of Forestry and headed back down the mountain stopping at Looking Glass Falls.  I have at least 500 pictures of these falls taken over the years!  Never fail to impress.

From here we did, what we love to do, picked up a Forest Service Road and followed it through the mountains.  We turned right at the Fish Hatchery and headed into the mountain on a dirt road.  The road wound around, up and down, sharp curves climbing to a ridge and then back down the other side.  We had no idea where we were geographically, just enjoyed the colors and solitude.  

Occasionally we would meet up with hunters out with their beagles.  It is bear season….again…and they were out in force sending the dogs in to bring the bears out.  We stopped to ask a few groups how they were doing.  They weren’t having a successful day.  The bears must have heard it was opening season and were heading for the high hills!

About an hour later we came down the mountains and out onto a highway.  I couldn’t believe where we were.  For those who know the area, we were on Rosman Highway several miles outside of Brevard.  We must have climbed and traversed a few mountains to get this far up.  Or... maybe as a bird flies, it’s not that far.  I think people we passed, driving their 4X4’s, were surprised to see a Cadillac CTS off-roading!  I’ve always said, “It’s a Cadillac truck!”

On our way back through town we stopped at a new market that moved in where Poppy’s, our favorite market last year, was located.  It’s called Food Matters and is another health-food, organic supermarket with great meat.  We picked up a steak and came back to the CG to relax for the evening.  Can’t beat the location ….. right on the water.  So peaceful and quiet here.

FIXING THINGS

Our second day here is being spent watching Dave under the sink fixing a leak in the kitchen faucet.  It may be a little easier to reach than on a boat, but not by much!  So, we took a trip to Lowe’s to get a plumbers wrench and that’s how our first half of the day has gone.    

Decided to do a late lunch/early dinner so headed over to Asheville to the Western NC Farmers Market and Moose Café.   The food is great and typically southern.  I felt myself outgrowing my pants just walking into the restaurant.  It didn’t help when we ordered our “lunner”; chicken fried steak with extra white pepper gravy, mac & cheese and carrot casserole that tastes like dessert and fried chicken with white pepper gravy, mashed potatoes with white pepper gravy and carrot casserole.  Yup!  We did it up right.  Decided this was going to be our only meal of the day …. Justifications!

We waddled back out of the restaurant and drove past Lake Powhatten to the Discount Shoes.  I can’t tell you if the prices are discounted or not; but the selection is unbelievable!  Last year Dave bought a pair of shoes for $7 and they lasted one year.  Wearing them into the store many of the seams were splitting and the heel had come partially unglued but he certainly got his $7 worth.  He couldn’t find another pair for $7 so settled for a pair of Merrills for considerably more!  I picked up a pair of Clarks “Maryjane” style shoes as several women had that style on and said they were very comfortable.  Wow they really  are comfortable.  I’ll be wearing these a lot.   Soooo, we’re good for another year!

Our last day here and the visit would not be complete without a hike through the DuPont State Forest to Triple and High Falls.  Transylvania County is known as “The Land of the Waterfalls”.  It is a rain forest east of the Mississippi.  Apparently this summer they had a lot of rain so the waterfalls were flowing fast.   

The DuPont State Forest is relatively recent.  It was privately owned for years and a developer purchased the land with the promise of keeping access to the falls open.  Eventually the State came in with eminent domain to take back the property accomplished  in large part by equestrians and mountain bikers who enjoyed using these forests.   The DuPont State Forest backs up to Cascade Lake but you have to drive down the mountain and around the other side and up to access the trails and falls.

THE FALLS

Little River starts at the top of Cedar Mountain and flows down four waterfalls and ultimately into Cascade Lake.  Hooker Falls, the bottom falls, is at the other end of the lake we are camping on and has been used in several movies.  In Last of the Mohicans, the scene where they are paddling down rapids and throws the canoe over what looks like a large waterfall is actually Hooker Falls and when we watched the movie we saw the spot where we usually brought our canoes under the falls!

Last summer The Hunger Games movie was filmed throughout the DuPont State Forest and all of the waterfalls.  Chris & Collin were anxious to see if they could recognize the locations where it was filmed.  On more than one occasion last summer we paddled down to Hooker Falls to find large camera booms out over the falls and crews setting up for filming. 

Previous summers, kids on the rocks in Triple Falls

Mark & Lucy ... we renamed this one Cascade Falls after the falls on the Weathersfield Trail!

Up Little River is Triple Falls.  This is a beautiful cascade of water flowing down the mountain.  

HIGH FALLS

Top of High Falls

The third and highest waterfall on Little River is High Falls sliding 150’ down an incline of granite.  At the top of the waterfall is  covered bridge and there were quite a few scenes in The Hunger Games filmed at this location, aiming down the falls!

All of these falls were a favorite of my kids and grandkids as we climbed down into the base of the falls and they swam in the pools or stood under the cascades.  Don’t find this in Florida!

OUR LAST STOP

Our summer adventures are coming to a close as we depart Cascade Lake and finish up the 500 mile trip home.  It has been a great five months, never dull, never boring with the only challenges being the removal of the mice that had taken up residence in our motorhome in Vermont.  In fact when I shopped for our last set of traps, Walmart was sold out and Tractor Supply’s inventory was way down.  Obviously we weren’t the only people dealing with the MARCH OF THE MICE!

It is always interesting to look back and see the themes that wove themselves through our travels without any intent or fore planning.  We started with a party weekend with RV friends in Georgia touring Jekyll Island and the early settlers at Fort Frederica, then  up to Charleston SC with the start of historical touring of Civil War forts as well as our mighty Navy and ….. don’t forget the Virgil Kane ginger-infused bourbon! 

Our next stop was, none other than, Moonshine Creek!  Wasn’t even thinking about that name until I looked back on the trip!  From Moonshine Creek we settled into Bourbon territory of Kentucky, not only sampling all that delicious Kentucky Bourbon but also following the history of the westward movement with farmers moving into Kentucky for new farming opportunities and bringing along their distilling capabilities.  On up to Ohio to VJ’s RV Park …. Best in the world with our first sampling of summer temperatures spiking into the 100’s. 

As we skirted the Great Lakes we started to sample the wines in the areas of Ohio.  Niagara Falls in NY was incredibly impressive and here we met the War of 1812 as well as Ice Wine! 

This part of the trip gave us a new appreciation for the State of New York.  I now understand “I heart NY”.  Traveling from Niagara to the Finger Lakes Region sampling wines, beer and root beer was lots of fun.  Only have a few bottles left to take home.  Thousand Islands and Adirondacks were impressive and I could feel Vermont just over the mountains waiting for us.

Also an eye was turned toward the waters and the possible boat routes that we might have taken if we had traveled by boat.  Jekyll Island stops, Charleston Harbor….up into New York through the Erie Canal watching the Loopers coming through, boats on the Finger Lakes having come through the Oswego Lake; Erie Canal in the Adirondacks and then the boats up on the St Lawrence Seaway and over on Lake Champlain.  Even coming down through Rhinebeck there was the Hudson River.   All places I would have loved to seen by boat.

I’ll never forget that Ferry crossing Lake Champlain into Charlotte VT as the Green Mountains opened up in front of us.  An old familiar feeling started to take over as I was home where my families began over 200 years ago. 

Vermont was wonderful.  Walking in the past, seeing it with new eyes and appreciation, meeting wonderful people and making good friends made the summer so very, very special.  Leaving Vermont was difficult, but the call of home, family and friends was strong.

Coming back into New York once again affirmed how beautiful this state is.  Driving down to Gettysburg and walking those hallowed battlefields, with good friends we hadn’t seen since we started the trip in May, was an incredibly emotional experience.  Driving through the Shenandoah Valley once again proves how truly beautiful this country of ours is. 

Then the North Carolina mountains opened up and I felt we were in the home stretch.  Western North Carolina is a second home and loved by my entire family.  My kids were raised camping, hiking and rafting up here in these mountains and my grandsons also have developed a love for the area.

So…..homeward  we’re bound. 

We truly live a charmed life.  

Life is good!